For what was supposed to be somewhat of a "nothing" day, a day where we were to slowly make our way back to the nation's capital, it turned out to be one of those roller coaster of emotions days that only two weeks of international travel can inspire. We left at around 8am today as we wanted to be in Nairobi at a decent hour. On the way out of the park while being distracted by a nearby jackal, we all spot something streaking through the forest beside the van. We are all staring intently at these large black animals that are running very quickly through the forest not 20 feet away from our van. Finally we reach a clearing and what is revealed was truly remarkable and unbelievable. Its a small pack of wild dogs on the hunt! To clarify the rarity of this sight, the day before yesterday on one of George's information sessions he told us that wild dogs used to be prominent in the Mara but that amongst the guides, in the past 5 years or so, not a single one was recorded to have been sighted and the local lore was that they were thought to be extinct! This was one of those moments were everyone in the van (we were giving a local worker a ride to a nearby town) turned and looked at each other with pure ecstasy and disbelief at what we had just witnessed. As quickly as they had appeared, the dogs once again returned to obscurity and perhaps even to mythical status because who knows just how long it will be before another documented sighting takes place. Wild dogs do not hunt like other principle predators, they will chase their prey for many miles to exhaust them. Unfortunately our cameras were packed away in our bags, however, much like our rare sighting of the rhino in Nakuru, I likely would not have had the time, or quick enough reaction, to take a good picture. I know for me, that moment will be forever burned into my memory. Had it been in other parts of Africa, this sighting may not be so dramatic, but here in the Mara a kind of scientific experiment with vaccines (for rabbies I believe) took place a few decades ago. The vaccines were deemed responsible for wiping out the entire population through sterilization.
On and on the drive went, George drives the speed limit so our drive took much longer then expected. Upon arrival into Nairobi we got stopped by a police officer who seemed very upset and George looked very concerned. They were speaking swahilli but we could tell he was talking about us, or at least mentioning us. After several minutes of this back and forth he was let go. George later explained "that man wanted to arrest me, if not for you I would have surely been arrested". Apparently there are all types of licences required for automobiles in Kenya including a license for a radio, no not a CB radio, but the am/fm radio. The license had expired and this is an enforceable offense. George was able to plead with the officer telling him he has clients and this would not be fair to us as we had van full of luggage.
Eventually we did make our way through the insanity that is traffic in Nairobi and checked in to our hotel. It was a very nice modern hotel and we were happy to find a proper bathroom and air conditioning in the room. We laid down to relax a bit and vegg out in front of the TV (something we hadn't seen in a couple weeks!) and to our horror, ALL of the news stations were broadcasting about a terrorist attack that had struck Kampala, Uganda. We both jumped out of bed with our hearts in our throats wondering what in the world had happened? Our immediate reaction was that the city must be in chaos because they were speaking about over 80 people being killed by bombs. The bombs were exploded by suicide bombers from a terrorist organization with links to Al Qaeda, named Al Shabab who operate out of Somalia. The suicide bombers had targeted popular sports bars who were showing the finals of the world cup match. This was not a good sign. We quickly ran downstairs and got online to see what we could find out. The Canadian Embassy had not issued warnings for the area and after reading a few headlines, it didn't appear as though we would be as at risk as we had once thought. It was obviously very devastating for the city and the country, especially since Al Shabab had promised more retaliation if Uganda did not pull its troops from Somalia.
Later on that day we met with Elizabeth from our tour company who briefed us on the situation. She had already been in contact with a few people in Uganda who had assured her that flights were not delayed or cancelled and things had pretty much returned to normal, and besides we were not staying in downtown Kampala anyhow...something comparable to say being in Brampton as apposed to downtown Toronto. Elizabeth assured us our tour would still go ahead and we had nothing to worry about!
That evening we met up with Andrew (Anne's friend) and a few of his other friends. He treated us as if we were family, picked us up at our hotel, paid for our entire bar tab and the dropped us off back at the hotel even though it was after midnight and he had to work at 6am..oh those crazy Kenyans! We had a blast just laughing it up and having a few drinks. It was the perfect way to end our incredible honeymoon adventure!
Thanks for the update . . . one of my cousins in England used to farm in Kenya. I think his son was born there.
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